The doublet pattern comes from The Tudor Tailor by Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies. I patterned the skirt, cloak, and loose pants myself based upon my own design sketches, which will be included at the end of this post.
This was a very involved costume in terms of hand-sewing. Many seams were sewn by hand for historical authenticity, and all garments except the pants were embroidered by hand. The doublet is boned with strong cable ties to maintain its shape, and it laces up the front via hand-worked eyelets. The buttons on the front are functional, but as you can imagine spherical buttons are not the best at staying in their buttonholes. They require the support of the hidden lacing strip. Buttonholes were done by hand, and the buttons themselves are pearl beads that I covered with thread.
The wig is the only part of this costume that I am not completely comfortable with. The issue was finding a short wig that is made well enough that it does not show wefts anywhere. I had to opt for something a little longer, thus I used a Magnum in dark copper red from Arda Wigs.
Progress posts can be found here:
Design and Patterning
Embroidery
Finishing Stages
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| Detail shots of the doublet: embroidery and thread-covered buttons. |
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