07 January 2019

WW1 US Army Contract Surgeon Uniform (Winter Version)

The winter version of the Contract Surgeon uniform was based on photographs of female contract surgeons that I had found in the time since making the summer version. It needed to be wool for warmth and I wanted a mandarin collar like the male soldiers wore. I also changed the hip pockets from patch pockets to bellows pockets to accommodate more stuff (and to avoid any more comments about cell phones from three-star generals).

The textile is a heavy wool coating, which was very nice to work with. The pattern was drafted/draped based on the Summer uniform pattern that I made earlier in the year and a men's uniform coat that I own. Just like the Summer uniform, all the buttonholes are functional and hand-embroidered.

Details about making this uniform can be found here.

Presenting my research at the Bay Ridge Historical Society, 21 November 2018
Photo: unknown

United War Veterans Council Holiday Dinner, Fraunces Tavern, December 2018
Photo: Eliza Vincz

United War Veterans Council Holiday Dinner, Fraunces Tavern, December 2018
Photo: Eliza Vincz

Presenting at the Bay Ridge Historical Society, 21 November 2018
Photo: Unknown

Green Fairy Society November 2018, Armistice Day Theme
(Test wear to identify problems with uniform)

Green Fairy Society November 2018, Armistice Day Theme
(Test wear to identify problems with uniform)

Green Fairy Society November 2018, Armistice Day Theme
(Test wear to identify problems with the uniform)

United War Veterans Council Holiday Dinner, Fraunces Tavern, December 2018
With WW2 WAVES veteran Lucille
Photo: United War Veterans Council

Veteran's Day 2018
Photo: passerby

World War 1 Contract Surgeon Uniform (Summer Version) Photo Gallery

I made this uniform to be part of my historical presentation for the East Coast Doughboys, a living history group in New York City that teaches the public about World War 1. I have had the privilege of being one of few people to portray a woman in uniform during this time because I have the skill to make these uniforms, which are not available on the mass market the way the men's uniforms are.

The pattern for this uniform comes from a 1916 dressmaker's pattern that I re-drafted and draped to be what I wanted it to be. It is made of a nice cotton twill and interlined with wool hair canvas to give the lapels and collar their shape. All the buttonholes are hand-embroidered and fully functional, although most of the skirt front is sewn shut to prevent wardrobe mishaps. Only the top few buttons are used as the closure. Both the jacket and the skirt are lined in silk habbotai. The shirt and all the leather pieces are vintage, except for the chin strap on the campaign hat, which I made to replace the crumbling original. The medical arm band is not my work.

A detailed description of how this uniform was constructed can be found here.

Old Westbury Gardens, June 2018
Photo: Eliza Vincz

In Flanders Fields Memorial, May 2018

Yankee Stadium Doughboy Statue Rededication, Fall 2018
Photo: Kevin Fitzpatrick

Yankee Stadium Doughboy Statue Rededication, Fall 2018
Photo: unknown (please contact me if you know)

Brooklyn Memorial Day Parade, May 2018
Photo: Arthur De Gaeta

Old Westbury Gardens, June 2018
Photographer: unknown

Brooklyn Memorial Day Parade, May 2018

Old Westbury Gardens, June 2018
Photo: Eliza Vincz


Back of uniform, pictured at Old Westbury Gardens, June 2018
Photo: probably Robert Pellegrino

New York City Transit Museum, November 2018

Uniform worn with 1917 dated officer's overcoat

Original early 20th century surgical gown worn over uniform (without jacket), Historic Richmond Town, 4 July 2018

The Green Fairy Society, May 2018, skirt only